Happy Marriage!

 My AFS friend Nick visited Istanbul for a week. He studied TESL at the University of Minnesota like I did and has a teaching internship in Berlin for the summer, so when he asked if he could shadow me one day at work of course I let him. In my last week of a long year at a private Turkish primary school, I figured he should see really naughty kids in action before he decides to be a teacher for the long haul.

I introduced him to my coworkers and my first class as "my friend Nick from America." The students immediately took this to mean that he was my lover/boyfriend/husband and spent the entire lesson writing us notes congratulating us on our wedding. Google Translate didn't give me anything useful (the horrible "I just learned how to write" penmanship didn't help)  but they say things along the lines of "Happy Wedding" and "I wish you a happy life together."  (The one ending with Hehhh... is especially intriguing!) I also broke the news to them that Friday is my last day of teaching, so they assumed that Nick had come to Istanbul to pick me up. They were sad to hear I was leaving and told Nick that he could go home but I had to stay. :)

In order to avoid the chaos of that first class, I told all subsequent classes that he was my brother. It was easily believed since we both are pale, skinny and blue-eyed (not to mention gorgeous and extremely fashionable) but I only realized afterwards that if the classes gossip about the stranger at school and find out that he is my brother AND my boyfriend, they will have a very skewed idea of what is socially acceptable in America. Let's hope their class teachers cleared things up before the went home and told their parents that Anna Teacher was marrying her brother! (Although, I might score some expensive wedding gifts before I leave...)

Luuuurve

One of my friends had this as her facebook status update:


why i am happy with my boyfriend (is this a lame status update?):

because he laughs at my hairy legs when others are disgusted.
then waxes them when my own attempts fail.

Could just be my mood of late, but the cuteness made me cry. What better way is there to describe love in 30 words?

Good Advice

I have been trying for a few weeks to write a blog about my current living situation (titled 8 Simple Rules For Living With Your Ex) but I am still much too close emotionally to it all to be able to express myself clearly. I often read the photocomic Surviving the World and came across this one today. This basically sums up a lot of what I wanted to say in my blog but in a much more succinct, less boring and definitely less bitchy way.

Funny

I have been looking for a while for a non-souveniry Istanbul t-shirt, and luckily for me, many of the Turkish clothing companies have had Turkey/Istanbul-themed shirts this season. Many were ugly, some were too glittery, and they were all too expensive. Until I found this one today:

5TL, flattering cut, beautiful Galata Tower, good colour, random words "Child dreams Istanbul" and, best of all, a cartoon PIG on the left! All in all a very good birthday present to myself.

Viva la Revolución!

Not to toot my own horn (toot toot!), but thanks to me, most of you know more than the average person does about Kyrgyzstan (for starters, you know it IS a country, it's not Kurdistan, and you know more or less where it is). Now, thanks to the recent revolution and worldwide news coverage, you know even more than before and your ears probably perked up when you heard the reporter stumbling over all those consonants.

During my time in Kyrgyzstan, there was a lot of talk about a possible revolution. We waited and secretly hoped it would happen to throw some excitement into our lives, but nothing ever happened. The day it was supposed to happen was rainy and people just couldn't be arsed. I was quite surprised when I heard that on April 7th (probably a sunny day) the Kyrgyz men were up out of their Asian squats and ready for political change. Gas and electric prices had skyrocketed, corruption was getting out of control and people were sick of it. It started out as a mostly peaceful demonstration outside the White House. Things got out of hand as they often do when vodka and policemen in riot gear with automatic weapons are involved, and tragically 85 people were killed. It's been said that the president's brother gave the police the command to start shooting protestors. In the end, Bakiev was ousted, the interim government is being led by a woman (!) Roza Otunbaeva and millions of dollars were lost by businesses as a result of horrible looting. Roza must come a shock to many of my Kyrgyz students who said that a woman's only place is at home raising children.

I was worried about my friends there and sad to see what had happened to the already poor country, so I was disappointed to see reports like this:

Kyrgyzstan’s capital is under siege in a brutal riot that appears to have ousted Kurmanbek Bakiyev, the brutal leader who himself came to power in the Tulip Revolution.

Oh, and if your reaction is, “Who the hell cares about Kyrgyzstan?” recall that Manus Air Base is the key transit point for US and NATO resupply in Afghanistan.
(from here)

First of all, it's the Manas airbase. Secondly, why is something only newsworthy when the US is involved? The world does not revolve around the US, contrary to what some people seem to think. People losing their lives while standing up for something they believe in is something to care about, regardless of how small or 'insignificant' the country is.

On this site is a video of the state that Vefa Centre was in following the revolution and looting. Vefa Centre was the big Turkish shopping mall just down the road from where I lived and I visited it more than once a day for groceries, dinner, phone credit, or money changing. Sad.

And to me, this poignant picture sums up the entire revolution: Kyrgyz men, police, death and kalpaks.

( Vyacheslav Oseledko / AFP/Getty Images / April 7, 2010 )

Bakiev was put in power as the result of the peaceful Tulip Revolution of 2005 that ousted Askar Akaev, the leader since the fall of the Soviet Union. (Akaev is happily in exile working as a physics professor in Moscow. Bakiev dreams of opening a toy store in his post-presidential exile-life. He'll no doubt find a way to steal money from the store and the children who shop there.) Bakiev had promised to develop the country and avoid corruption but clearly forgot that even before the looted buildings had been cleaned up. I hope that Roza Otunbaeva and the interim government stay true to their promises and avoid the path of corruption. Long-suffering Kyrgyzstan finally needs to be given a break.

Genocide?

I am really not a political-minded person, but living in Turkey one is surrounded by controversial and interesting political news. I hope I don't offend anyone with the following post... (and when I say 'Turks' I, of course, don't mean 'all Turks,' but rather 'many Turks')

Everyone knows the saying, 'A picture is worth a thousand words.' Life in Turkey has shown me that a word can be worth a lot too. April 24th, 2010 marked the 95th anniversary of the killing of hundreds of Armenians by Ottomans following World War I. Most people would call it a genocide but Turks refuse to acknowledge it as such. Instead, they see it an unfortunate after-effect of WWI where both Turks and Armenians slaughtered each other. Since 1915, there have been strained relations between Turkey and Armenia because of this, and other countries tread on eggshells about the issue unless they want to lose allies. The US House is currently trying to pass a non-binding resolution declaring the deaths in the post-WWI Ottoman Empire and genocide, but both Obama and Hilary Clinton have spoken against the resolution, saying it will just work to damage peace talks between the countries. Turkey has, of course, spoken out against this resolution saying it will weaken the close allegiance between the US and Turkey. The US can't afford to lose Turkey's friendship as its strategic location in the Middle East is very beneficial to the US.

I always turn to wikipedia first for all information and it was interesting to find that while the English headline for the page on this topic is Armenian Genocide, the Turkish title for the same page is Crimean Armenians. The Turkish page mentions that some historians view it as a deliberate government order calling for genocide of intellectual Armenians, but the Turkish official policy states that  the cause of death was war conditions, diseases, climate, local gangs and tribal attacks rather than a systematic state policy. They also make sure to draw attention to the fact that the Christian Armenians also massacred the Muslim Ottomans/Turks. The English page states that it was the first modern genocide and that it's the second most studied genocide after the Holocaust. There's an entire page about Turkey's denial of the genocide (unsurprisingly, this page does not have a Turkish language equivalent).

To commemorate the day, there were peaceful protests and counter-protests in multiple locations in Istanbul on Saturday and less-peaceful protests in Yerevan, Armenia. There, flags and pictures of Turkish leaders were burned. In Turkey, police were on hand to keep fights from breaking out.

In the English-language Turkish newspaper I get at work, Today's Zaman, two pages were devoted to articles about the Armenian issue and all four op-ed columnists chose to voice opinions on the issue as well. All clearly agree that it was indeed a genocide but are careful not to focus their piece on labeling the event and rather "let the sides share their stories without a language of accusation, to create empathy, understanding" and "work together toward learning, sharing and reconciling past agonies without categorical accusations of genocide." (İhsan Dağı, 1915 Beyond 'Genocide,' Today's Zaman 26.04.10)

I learned that every year the US president makes a speech on April 24th about the issue. As Obama was campaigning for president, he made it clear that if he were elected, he would call it a genocide. However, in his speech on Saturday this was not mentioned. Instead, he referred to it as 'Meds Yeghern,' Armenian for 'great tragedy.' He said, 

"On this solemn day of remembrance, we pause to recall that ninety-five years ago one of the worst atrocities of the 20th century began. In that dark moment of history, 1.5 million Armenians were massacred or marched to their death in the final days of the Ottoman Empire. Today is a day to reflect upon and draw lessons from these terrible events. I have consistently stated my own view of what occurred in 1915, and my view of that history has not changed. It is in all of our interest to see the achievement a full, frank and just acknowledgment of the facts. The Meds Yeghern is a devastating chapter in the history of the Armenian people, and we must keep its memory alive in honor of those who were murdered and so that we do not repeat the grave mistakes of the past.”

He also praised those Turks who helped save Armenians in 1915, but his middle-of-the-road approach doesn't appear to have satisfied Turks or Armenians. Armenians wish that he had stayed true to his word during campaign season and called it a genocide, while some Turks feel that his accusations could still be read between the lines and that saying "Meds Yeghern" is no different from calling it a genocide. You can read the whole article here.

It seems so childish to me for one word to have such a strong effect on an entire nation, but it might because I am not very patriotic or nationalistic. Imagine if the American government and its people refused to admit that slavery had happened and rather stubbornly carried on, year after year, stating that it was an unfortunate turn of events where blacks and whites both suffered equally. This is perhaps not the same thing, but the general idea is that nothing bad would come if/when we finally admitted that the facts were actually true. Nothing bad will happen to Turkey if they ever acknowledged the genocide as such. Germany has apologized for the Holocaust and no one thinks less of them.

On the other hand, how short-sighted of the Armenians to still need an apology. The dead are dead, those who killed the dead are now dead too. Armenians should understand that they themselves weren't harmed by anyone and also that the current leaders of Turkey were not the ones who killed their loved ones. Turkey should be willing to admit it to smooth world relationships, but Armenia should also be able to let go and move forward. Admitting it won't bring back the loved ones, while at the same time denying it won't make it go away. Forging forward with peace talks doesn't mean forgetting what happened, but wouldn't it be nice to normalize relations with a neighboring country, open a long-closed border, and stop dwelling on/being defensive about the past?

Wanna smoke a bud?

A few months ago, Turkish TV stations began censoring cigarettes and all smoking. They simply  put a cartoon flower over the cigarette, which is much more noticeable than the cigarette would have been. When multiple people in one scene are smoking, each one's flower is a different style and colour - one has an orange rose, one a string of red roses, etc. I tried to take pictures of this hilarity on Two and a Half Men today, but photographing a TV is never easy. Still, I think you get the idea.

Cute, yes?

New Blog!

What have I become? A girl who spends all her time blogging? Good heavens, I'm turning into Jane!

This blog is really meant to document my travel experiences and the recent knitting posts seem a bit out of place. So I decided to make a separate knitting blog, that many of you probably won't read since really, who cares about knitting except grandmothers! No, I jest. I know many of you seem to enjoy seeing my knitting creations. Anyway. I'm moving knitting-related posts from here to Memories are knit with love. Find them there and check back soon for more!

Maybe Steve Jobs Wants One Too?

My dad is a computer "nerd" and even though his work requires him to use PCs, he has always loved Apple products. He is an iPhone user, has a new iMac desktop, and is already dreaming about reasons he "needs" an iPad. After seeing pictures of the hats I've been making recently, he requested an Apple-themed hat. He originally mentioned the retro, multi-coloured Apple logo:

Making this would have required buying 6 different balls of yarn, only to use just a few inches of each. This didn't seem practical for a thrifty person like me, so I thought of other things I could do with an Apple picture. I came up with the dorky idea of making it an iHat. I then wanted to experiment with writing words in yarn and after seeing a Simpsons episode about a Mapple myPod using the slogan "Think differently," I checked up on Apple slogans and found that "Think different" was a 90s slogan used for various Apple Macintoshes.

It took ages to draw up a pattern that included the words positioned correctly, and it's harder than you think to turn the image from the back of a laptop into a lookalike pattern on graph paper. Sheets of paper later, I had an apple with a bite missing, 'iHat' in a font that looked like the one Apple uses, and the words 'Think different' spaced across the back of the hat on alternating lines so they matched up when knit in the round. 

If you made it through that boring and wordy explanation of yet another knitting process, here's your reward! Pictures of the completed hat, that my dad chooses to roll up slightly and as a result looks like just Turkish men with their non-ear-covering headwear.

A Turkish Bath

The hamam, or Turkish bath, has been part of Turkish culture for years. (As always, you can read all about hamams on wikipedia here). Hamams are in every guide book as something that must be done in Turkey, and there are hamams in every neighborhood. Generally they are divided by genders and are visited naked, but to appeal more to tourists, co-ed hamams exist with special cover-ups provided to give modest foreigners the cover they need. Guide books recommend these tourist-friendly hamams over local ones, and these charge upwards of 35 Euros plus a tip for the masseus to visit. Usually a hamam experience includes the bath, a scrub and a massage.

My parents came to visit for a week and a half and my mom was very keen on getting a real Turkish bath experience. We searched online for a co-ed one so my parents could go together, but the one that sounded best, the Süleymaniye Hamam, was closed for renovations to prepare it for unveiling for the 2010 Istanbul Capital of Culture. She decided she'd just go alone since my dad wasn't so eager to go with a group of non-English-speaking men, and I found the closest one to my house, the Büyük Hamam in Kasimpasa, the neighborhood of Istanbul where I live. We had read some reviews online, and one woman wrote that she had a rather negative experience. Here's an excerpt:

I was told that this would be the best scrub ever, that it would be hard and my skin would feel softer and more invigorated than ever. Much to my chagrin, the scrubbing was light, the soap was the cheapest liquid, most obnoxious smelling Proctor & Gamble nastiness. I was reeling from being washed by a topless woman. And, yes, I was worried that I’d be taken advantage of. It was a very sexual thing for me. I was scared. When it was time for me to flip over, she just smacked my thigh. There was one moment when my clit was grazed and it just felt awkward. I wondered if they were going to wash my private parts, which, by the way, were left unrinsed.

My mom isn't swayed by negative reviews so we went anyways. My dad and I planned to wait for her in a cafe, but when we walked in the 6 Gypsy women convinced me that I should go too. We left my dad to wait for us in the nearby park.

The Büyük Hamam was designed in 1533 by Mimar Sinan, probably the busiest architect in Turkish history. It seems like every building in Istanbul was built by him! It was staggering to think of all the naked bodies that had lain on the same marble slab in the more than 500 years' of the hamam's existence. (If you look closely you can almost see butt imprints :) )

My mom and I were shown to a lockable changing room and were given a plaid cotton cloth to use as a cover-up. We disrobed and were led into a hot room, with marble stones and basins and small skylight windows to let natural light in. Here, one of the large Gypsy women filled one of the basins with hot water and gestured for us to sit down. She then tossed water on us using a plastic bowl. She mimed that this was how we were supposed to wet ourselves, and then demonstrated that we were to lie down on a big marble slab in the middle of the room. The slab was somehow heated from below, so it was toasty warm (almost too warm!) She left us to relax for a few minutes and then another Gypsy woman came in, clothed in just a lace pair of briefs and a faded floral headscarf. At first we thought it was just another hamam-goer, but she made it clear that she was the masseuse. Another woman, similarly dressed, soon followed who was to be my masseuse. They first used a Brillo-pad-esque washcloth glove to quite roughly scrape all the dead skin off. By the time she was finished, I looked like I was recovering from a horrible peeling sunburn. She then squeezed a huge dollop of shampoo onto my stomach and began the soap massage. She focused extra well on hands, neck and feet and it was quite funny to be covered in soap suds from head to toe. She then led us back to the marble basin and again tossed hot water on us.

Neither woman spoke any English beyond "very good" and "tip." My Turkish is surprisingly slightly conversational, so we were able to talk about our families- one woman said she needed a tip because she had 3 children, and I explained how I have one brother but he wasn't visiting Turkey because of university. The women brought us nice fluffy towels and the hamam time was finished. We were the only women there the whole time other than the 6 women who either all worked there or just enjoyed hanging out.

We got dressed again and were invited to drink tea with the women. I managed to converse in Turkish about a variety of things including why I'm in Turkey, what we think of Obama, why Turkish tea is better than American tea, and if we could take the masseuse to America to work there. The women were all very interested in chatting and it was great fun to see how much progress my Turkish has made, even against my will. (I haven't taken any Turkish lessons and had been actively trying NOT to learn Turkish because my Russian will suffer as a result. I learn it from my students regardless of what I want, and now I'm starting to grow interested in it. My Russian is fading anyway.)

Even though the idea of a hamam had never really interested me, it was a nice experience and the women were so nice that I'd like to go again. For a total of 37 TL each (including a generous tip for the masseuse), it was half the price of a tourist hamam with much more local flair, even though I thought we were still overcharged. Lying on a hot block of marble while getting my chest soaped up and my thigh smacked by a large naked Gypsy woman while hearing the call to prayer blaring from the mosque next door is an memory that can never be recreated in America.